Hawksmoor

186, 184 Deansgate, Manchester M3 3WB

The decor was classy, I think, it’s pretty dark in there. The place had a musty smell. It felt like a restaurant that had been there for years despite opening in March 2015.

The staff were excellent, and, even though they are allowed to wear their own clothes, it's obvious who is working as they wear an apron. Our waitress, “Bambi” sensed our indecision over which wine to have so brought out two sample glasses for us. We decided on the 2011 Chateau Labadie, Medoc (£35 for the bottle).

To start we had the scallops with tarragon and rosemary (£14) which Jonathan Schofield had raved about in his Manchester Confidential review. They weren't bad, nothing to write home about. I've had much better scallops for half the cost at a Michelin starred restaurant (Braidwoods in Dalry, Scotland).

Onto the main event - the steak. You order by weight from a chalk board and some mental arithmetic is needed to work out how much you’ll be spending. So try not to go there when squiffy as you may end up spending your rent on a cut of meat. 

We knew going in we wanted it bone-in with two different cuts of meat so decided to share the 850g Porterhouse (£76.50). On the side we had creamed spinach, beef dripping fries and triple cooked chips (£4 to £4.50 each). For the sauces we chose stilton hollandaise and bone marrow gravy (£1 each).

Here's where I will lose marks with some of you - we went for it medium. I know I know, rare or medium rare is the connoisseur's choice, but often restaurants like this undercook and you end up with a steak swimming in blood. I was happy with how it came out - pink in the middle, still plenty of juices remaining. 

The meat was superb and melted in the mouth - easily the best steak I've had outside of America. It went down too quickly and I soon found myself glancing around the room to see if I could get away with gnawing from the bone like a caveman (it was, I did). The sides and sauces were first rate - I had a glug of the bone marrow sauce directly from the jug like the savage I am.

We had thought before our visit that we wouldn't be able to finish the steak but in reality I could have eaten the whole thing to myself.

At £7.50 for a dessert my wallet started to quiver, so we decided to pass and ask for the bill - it was £140 in total for two people.

It was a great meal, nice for a little treat, but eye-wateringly expensive. I won’t be rushing back. There was nothing here to topple “Keens” in New York City, which still holds the title (in my books) as best steak in the world.